Under the direction of Haider Ackermann, Fall/Winter 2026 marks one year since he debuted at Tom Ford, where he has leaned into the house’s fascination with seduction. However, this season, we get a more corporate lens. Staged in a bright, minimalist space during Paris Fashion Week, there were nods to the sleek decadence that made Tom Ford famous in the late ’90s, while pushing its tailoring towards the heart of the collection.
Pinstriped and micro-houndstooth suits appeared repeatedly while subtly destabilizing the rigid codes of corporate dressing as trousers sat dramatically high on the waist or slouched low on the hips, sleeves rolled up, and many shirts left open. There was also an undercurrent of experimentation running through the tailoring as Ackermann is known for his cuts, and this season sees his strongest. Favorites included transparent outerwear with plastic trenches and cropped blazers.
One year on, we are starting to see a newly proposed Tom Ford man, one who is less overtly macho and more ambiguous. Traditional symbols of masculine authority are still intact, but worn with a loosened tie and a knowing smirk, which we can easily see resonate with the newgen. Overall, the recurring theme of this fashion week has centered around power. Ackermann’s suits suggested power and vulnerability at once.
Check it out below:
